Odds and Ends

 57 Hours  Total Hours 285

 I installed the Dynon ADHRS module in a bracket that I built. The ADHRS supplies all the attitude info to the Dynon System. It had to be mounted at no more than 1 degree off of the actual airframe attitude. This involved leveling the airframe and building the bracket so the unit is level. The "Smart Tools" on my phone came in very handy for this task. it is the only app I have that isn't free. It's shows the degree of angle in any direction.

Next I decided to mount the VPX unit on the sub panel. It can be accessed thru the holes that one of the Dynon 10" screens will mount in. I later drilled out the rivets on the mount and replaced them with #8 screws and nut plates. The Vertical Power Sport or "VPX" is an electronic breaker system. It also does a lot of other stuff that will simplify my panel.

I mounted my ELT antenna. It will be located just under the fiberglass tail fairing.

 I installed the static lines and Pitot and AOA lines from the Safe Air kit Iordered from Avery's. This is a very good kit and I am very pleased with the quick attach fittings. I neglected to get pics of this. I also installed the Dynon auto pilot pitch servo.

Next came the ACK E-04 ELT. A lot of thought and research went into this decision. This ELT will broadcast a position obtained from the Dynon Sky View system if I impact the earth and set it off or if I choose to activate the ELT manually in an emergency. I will order cable and BNC connectors to build and antenna cable as the supplied one is not long enough.

It is fairly uncomfortable working in this tunnel. I put a fan in the front of the cabin to keep cool and I am concentrating on having patience and taking my time to do good work.

I began to assemble the Airflow Performance Fuel Boost pump and the housing that Van's sells in a kit. After getting the housing all put together, I primed and painted the parts before final assembly.

Bending aluminum tubing is an art. It took 3 tubing benders from auto parts stores before I could get the right bends.

I also learned to torque the nuts 1 to 1.5 flats past hand tight. Unfortunately I had to put this project aside until I can get a special fitting for my Andair fuel valve. The valve came with the project and is a upgrade over the standard Van's valve but it was not configured the way the Andair valve most people install in the RV 7. The input from the right tank would not fit under the housing so I had to order a special "L" from Andair in England. I will finish installing when that part comes in.

I beveled the AN4 fittings that go on the end of the fuel tank vent lines as per plans.

They come out of the bottom of the fuselage  just behind the firewall. This picture shows the bevel towards the rear of the plane and I later read it was the opposite and faces the front of the plane. I corrected them.

I replaced the temporary wooded landing gear I was using earlier with this one. It will enable me to work and add components on the firewall. I can still push the fuse around very easy with the caster wheels on the bottom.

I got my "Taildragger" engine mount and landing gear in from Van's. I tried to trade on VAF but it seems everyone that is converting is going from tri-cycle to taildragger. This was a costly item. I know I will be able to sell my nosewheel mount later. I will set it aside as I plan to get the wiring and avionics all mounted before I mount it as it will raise the fuse and make it more difficult to work on wiring and behind the panel.

I fabricated a doubler for the brake fittings that exit to the front of the firewall.

I ran brake lines and riveted the doubler to the firewall. The brake lines will go down each landing gear leg to the brakes below.

 I want my plane to be simple as possible but I couldn't resist the urge to add a parking brake. It is just a valve that holds pressure against the brakes long enough to get out of the plane and set the wheel chocks. I am worried more for the West Texas wind trying to blow my plane around more than sloped ground.

I drilled and safety wired the flap motor shaft as per plans.

Mounted flap motor and Ray Allen's flap position sensor.

Lucky for me, I still have some RC model airplane parts and was able to fabricate a pushrod to activate the flap position sensor.

I needed more light to work on the intricate parts and my old trusty trouble light had been broken and thrown away. I built this one out of a light socket and an old extension cord. A clamp holds it in place.

I installed the electric aileron trim next. I don't think I really needed the electric trim over the manual trim but I wanted the china hat on my control sticks to work the trim in all directions. This little item caused me a little grief! I had to order a right angle tight space drill kit from Aircraft Spruce to drill the holes. Little did I know, this would become one of my most valuable tools in the months to come.

Here it is installed. Looks good and even works!

I decided I needed 5 point seat belts also and had to install the crotch strap brackets next. Good thing I have that right angle drill kit!