Paint and panel

Hours 48
Total Hours 683

I removed the canopy frame and roll bar to get it painted before I silkafex the canopy on. I also want to paint the panel and interior at this time. I pulled out the panel.

I primed the panel with sandable primer because of the scratches In the panel. I sanded it and repeated the process several times in my until it was smooth. I painted the panel Rustoleum smoke grey. Actually I painted it twice because the first time did not turn out good so I had to sand it down and start over. It finally came out good. After wet sanding the glare off of the panel, I clear coated a couple of times and wet sanded again. The waterslide labels needs a very smooth surface to look good. I designed my labels in MS word and printed them on decal paper I ordered over the internet.  I then, through a lot of trial and error, labeld the panel and let it dry overnight. The next day after the labels dried, they looked pretty good but I wasnt satisfied. They had a sheen when the light hit them from a certain direction and I wanted a more painted on look. I took this pic with the light just right, and you can see what I'm talking about.

I then did more research on the web and learned the plastic modeling people was using 

two chemicals called Micro Set and Micro Sol to make their labels look good. I ordered some 

and pulled all the labels off. After I recieved the chemicals, I started over. The Micro set really worked well! So well that I didnt need the Micro Sol. The Micro Sol tended to melt the label too much. The labels really looked painted on. Here is the panel re-installed.

I am really pleased.

I scuffed up the interior paint and washed the interior with soap and water. I primed the new parts, masked everything off, and then painted everything that will show after installing the seats and side panels. I used Rustolium Hammered Grey. I scuffed up the sliding canopy frame and roll bar and painted them with Rustoleum Hammered Black and then fitted the canopy some more.

I clamped the canopy  on the fram and marked where it needed to be trimmed. I trimmed it with a dremel tool and it worked well but the cuttings went everywhere! I had to

wear my welding goggles because, even with safety glasses, the particals would get I

in my eyelashes and get in my eyes when I blinked them! 

I scraped the sharp edges with a scraper made from an old hack saw blade and then sanded them to a smooth rounded finish. I ordered the Sikaflex, cleaner, and primer and will glue this canopy later.

Push forward!

 Hours 61
Total Hours 635

If I you will notice, I am beginning to post more often. I am learning to do I thought this with my phone and it will make it easier to post after each day or work session. Earlier I posted every 3 or 4 months or whenever I would finish a major part of the process....

I moved on to one of the most hated steps in the build process, fitting the canopy. I read the instructions and studied the plans 5 times all the way through. I read all the posts on VAF about the canopy, and spent many hours studying other builders build logs online and I was still confused about how the canopy should be fitted.

After studying during my 2 week hitch at work, I came home and attacked the situation. The roll bar was acceptable but the canopy was spread too much for the extra /2 inch the canopy would pull the frame apart after it was mounted. Also the rear aft side bows actually exceeded the outside of the aft fuse sides. Time for some bending.

Bending this stuff is every bit as hard everyone says it is! It would spring back every time I

thought I had gone to far.

Finally, when it did bend, it would tend to bend too much in that particular spot.

I finally got the side bows bent where I want them, now the aft side bow frame hits the fuseloge when you slide it open on both sides but the canopy should pull it apart far enough for it to clear. I then bent the rear bow in several places and it seamed easier to shape. After working on this for several days I finally had it pretty good except the aft side bow on the pilot side was higher that the rest of the canopy. After countless hours of head scratchin, I concluded that the frame had a slight twist in it. I then took a chance on a notion I had, I wrapped the front bow with straps all the way around the roll bar so to hold the frame tightly in place. I then took a 2x4 and twisted the aft frame in the opposite direction of the twist. To my astonishment, the frame seemed to be corrected. I unwrapped the straps and it was indeed correct! Everything was very close to perfect so I called it quits on shaping the canopy frame. I didnt get any pictures of that last configuration or twist but it worked so Im movin on!

Fitting the interior

Hours 5
Total Hours 574

Santana Claus brought me a wonderful gift! My seats and interior came in from Classic Aero! I needed to install everything so I could see what parts of the interior needed to be painted so I went to work. First I had to install on the floor panels and flap actuator covers. Putting everything together, I couldn't help but fantasize about doing this for the last time before the first flight!

I had read about how nice the Aviator seats were but I was still surprised! They felt so good when I climbed in! I had already spent days playing with the Skyviews getting familier  with them and I spent another day enjoying my seats and interior while playing with them again.

The cover for the baggage area fit great.

I am very pleased with our choice of colors and didnt find a single flaw in the workmanship of Classic Aero! The seats and interior was very expensive but  believe it will be a good investment. It was hard, but I took all of it out and put it back in its bags and boxes.

Finishing wiring and avionics

 Hours 102
Total Hours 569

I tested the vertical power unit with the test wires and all was good. All the skeptical textedav, and strobe lights worked. Plugged everything in and powered up Skyviews!

No smoke!

I did not like the way I wired the headphone jacks and decided to redo them.

After Greg Niehues suggested it, I changed out the aluminum clamp for a nylon block to hold down the elt antenna under the empennage fairing.

I riveted the baggage floor back on.

I then ran my fuel lines from the Andair valve to the wings. I worked hard trying to tity up the 

wiring so it would not touch the fuel lines.

Getting all the fuel lines built and connected to the Andair fuel selector valve was quite a chore! It all had to fit under the cover and not touch anything inside. 

I got the fuel lines and the boost pump all connected and installed the housing that I had painted earlier.

I then began to tidy up all my wiring runs through the cabin. All the wires had to be secure so not to rub and short out on anything.

I was able to attach most of the tie down holders with blind rivets in the tunnel.

I had to use super glue for a few of the tie down holders in this area. I was skeptical about using super glue until I tested them after they cured. I could not pull or break them off no matter how hard I tried! It took a lot of patience to get all these wires organized and secure but I am really pleased at how it turned out.